Starting Problems
One of the most frustrating failures for the average motorist is a vehicle that will not start. If the starter will not turn, there is a high probability that the problem is one of three things: the starter, the battery, or the alternator. (A starter that turns the engine enthusiastically but still will not start the engine, is another type of problem.) The frustration arises from the motorist’s desire to replace the failed component and only the failed component.
However, some repair shops may see this situation as an opportunity to sell a $3300 repair of all three components. Without testing, it is easy for a shop to recommend a new battery. Using a luxury model as an example, a battery for many Mercedes-Benz, can cost up to $500. The next day the vehicle may again not start. Then the customer is back at the shop, and this time the shop recommends an alternator. Many Mercedes alternators are now water-cooled, and the cost for this job is $1600. The next day, if it again, will not start, the shop may recommend a starter replacement. The starter requires the exhaust manifold to be removed so this job is $1200. This example uses an expensive, high-end, luxury model. Your vehicle will probably cost far less. Still, this example illustrates how shops sparingly apply diagnostic logic and expertise as a strategy to inflate repair profit.
At ASR, you will pay only for replacing what has failed, not troubleshooting by trial and error.
The following illustrates how ASR’s superior diagnosis expertise can save money, time, and frustration with any kind of vehicle breakdown or malfunction: In the example above, in which the starter does not turn, it is very simple for ASR to begin with a voltmeter across the starter terminals. When the starter button is activated, if 12 volts are read across the starter, and the starter does not turn, the problem is the starter. Likewise, the battery and the alternator can be similarly tested with 100% reliability using a voltmeter. With the engine off, the vehicle headlights are turned on. If the battery reads 12 to 12.5 volts, the battery is in good condition and is not the problem. Finally, with the engine running again, check the voltage across the battery. If the reading is 13.8 to 14.5 volts the alternator is good. ASR has the tools and the diagnostic process expertise to precisely determine which of these components needs service in a non-start situation.
It is possible for a battery, which is long overdue for replacement, to cause the failure of the alternator. Likewise, a malfunctioning alternator can cause the death of a battery. As a conventional battery fails, it develops a layer of sulfate on the floor of its container. The battery plates touching this sulfate layer will quickly discharge. This sulfate has the effect of causing the battery to look like a short circuit to the alternator. The alternator works harder and harder to provide current to charge the battery and only succeeds in overheating alternator coil windings leading to alternator failure. Similarly, a failing alternator that cannot keep the battery fully charged allows the battery to quickly build up a layer of sulfate at the bottom of its container leading to complete battery failure.
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